Another product of Vizen marketing which they sent for review is the 810-RT which is a wireless flash trigger which is capable of highspeed sync.
This was my very first time using highspeed sync as my main camera body before was a Nikon D3 that had no built in camera flash and I only had an sb-600 flash so I wasn't able to trigger it using HSS(highspeed sync) unless I buy an sb-800,sb-900, or nikon Su-800 Trigger.
At first I didn't actually know how to use as it's more complex than my usual trigger which I had to just turn on to use.The first thing you need to do is Switch the Flash to "Others" both the RT triggers if you're using a Nikon Camera and Flash.
After set one of the triggers to Slave(this will be the one you will put on your off camera flash).
For your On Camera Trigger, Set it to Master. You can control 3 Channels at once and either set it to Manual or TTL Mode. Normally for off-camera flash I use manual mode as I have more control over my flash the power output of my flash rather than making my camera automatically get the exposure.
For your speedlight, make sure it is also capable of HSS and also is for your camera brand and supports TTL. Set your speedlight to TLL for it to read properly from your 810-RT Trigger.
One of the best feature of having this trigger is you don't have to go to your speedlight to change its power(that I keep forgetting to do), you can control the power of the flash (TTL or Manual) on the trigger that is on the hotshoe of your camera, this makes shooting so much easier.
Now for the real world test!
For this test I wanted to keep it as minimal gear as possible, and there is nothing more minimal than one bare speedlight and a pair of the trigger. I also wanted to maximize the high speed sync capability so I was shooting almost everything against the sun and overpowering the power of the sun.
Normally when shooting outdoors and you want to over power the sun, you would have to shoot with a very fast shutter(1/4000 to 1/8000) or a small aperture (f18-f22). The problem with using a fast shutter speed is that normal triggers can't sync faster than 1/160-1/250th of a second so you won't be able to use a your speedlight. When using a small aperture (and making your sync speed 1/160-1/250th of a second) you would have to Pop your flash almost at full power everytime and when shooting at that shutter speed and having your subject move fast you would see that you get some kind of silhouette as the shutter is too slow for fast moving subjects mixed with flash. So, the best solution is to use high speed sync to shoot at a faster shutter speed and shoot wide open which gives a really nice dramatic effect on the photos.
I was shooting with my Nikon D750 which has the max shutter speed or 1/4000 but the 810-RT trigger can sync up to 1/8000 if your camera supports it.
For the shots below I was shooting at 1/4000, f/2.8, at ISO 200-1600(I was changing increasing my iso as the sun set to compensate for my ambient light). My wireless trigger was in manual mode and I was changing the power from 1/8-1/2 depending on the distance of my subject to my speedlight.
I also had an opportunity to really over power the sun. We were shooting at around 12pm and the sun was backlighting the subject really hard as you can see on the hard shadow on my subject. Again I just used one bare flash Handheld and the results I got couldn't get anymore perfect, notice also the shallow depth of field I was getting which made the result very surreal.
I was amazed with the results of using High Speed Sync and the 810-RT trigger. If you're looking for a trigger capable of HSS then this something you can check out. The results you can get when shooting at a fast shutter speed and wide open aperture is very unique and not the usual photos you get when shooting with a flash outdoors. I would definitely play with this some more as I liked the results I got.
Thanks to Vizen Marketing for sending the 810-RT trigger for review. Thanks to my beautiful girlfriend for patiently modeling in the very hot day. Also to the great dancers Sarah Palisada, Rael Palisada, Angelika Adrias, Angelou Adrias and Kevin Lanon
Vizen marketing recenlty asked me to review the I-light led stick for review. It's the first time i'm trying this kind of product so I was
very excited to review it.
When you purchase the i-light led it comes with it's own battery and charger ac adapter socket unlike other brand which you need to buy it separately.
It also comes with its own carrying case.
The i-light led has a 3/4 socket at the bottom so you can easily mount it to any lightstand or tripod.
It has two sides with different colors, a 5500k(Daylight) and an 3200k(Tungsten) led light which you can adjust the power.
It certainly can be used as a normal light source for Portraits or product shots but I wanted to really test how I can use the i-light to it's full potential. I had a shoot in my studio of 5 talented dancers and it was the perfect time to play around with the i-light.
We were first shooting on the rooftop of my studio and I just played around with the I-light very quick. There was a lot of ambient light from buildings so I was also exposing the other lights as well.
I liked the results but I knew I could do better so we went down to my studio so that there would be no ambient light and I could see the full potential of the I-light some more. I wanted to show the movement of the dancers and the flow of how they move. I also wanted to add colors to my light so I got pieces of colored gels (even colored plastic or cellophane would do as the lights doesn't get hot like studio strobes or flash) and taped it on the upper half of the i-light.
The one thing I was really happy how you used the i-light was it was like holding a lightsaber and using it was really fun. It also is
built very tough and doesn't feel cheap.
I set my camera on a tripod and set my shutter to BULB, f/8 at iso 200. This was a little tougher than my regular lightpainting as my only light that was hitting my subject was the i-light and every movement they made would be seen in the output, but they did a great job trying to be very steady.
All the lights were off except the i-light and when I pressed the shutter, one of the dancers light painted first the front of the subject and around the back of the subject. You can check out my article on How to Light Paint here, http://petapixel.com/2016/07/25/basic-guide-light-painting-photography/ where I also feature the i-Light.
t was really fun playing around with the I-light, if you want multi purpose light then this is a product worth checking out! Price is P12,5000 but if you mention the article you get 25% OFF! Go to facebook and search Vizen Marketing to order it.
f you want to play around with shadows and add depth to your lighting, this simple technique is perfect for you. And you only need minimal gear to do it.
CLICK HERE for the whole article: http://petapixel.com/2015/12/07/use-cheap-mirrors-flash-creative-portrait-lighting/I
CLICK HERE for the whole article: http://petapixel.com/2015/12/07/use-cheap-mirrors-flash-creative-portrait-lighting/
Last week I wrote about why you would want to do a DIY photography project, but can it match up to pro gear? Challenge… Accepted!
This week I did a whole photoshoot using only DIY modifiers for main lights. With the help of my girlfriend and her friends to model for me, the challenge was on.
The idea behind challenge was to prove that making your own modifiers and equipment is not all that bad compared to branded expensive material. (And before the first comment starts coming in, let me say that I do own a couple of Westcott softboxes and umbrellas, and I use them when needed or when working with high end clients, I just really like my DIY’s).
Check out the article here: http://www.diyphotography.net/can-diy-modifiers-compete-pro-grade-modifiers/
One thing about photography is that from time to time you have creative dry spells and you need some inspiration to keep you going. One place I love to go to when I have my dry spells, or just need some inspiration, is rught here – DIYP, and lucky for me after a while I became a writer here, so… what a coincidence. I had just made my Kick Ass 4 Feet Ringlight and got the DIY itch to create something else. Looking around the blog, I stumbled on this article about beauty florecent lighting.
It “only” took me 3 months of thinking and planning and jut wondering about if I was going to build it. Until I just did.
Check out the article here: http://www.diyphotography.net/diy-flourescent-tube-light-thingy/
Ring lights have a very specific light signature. Mostly it is connected with fashion photography as it gives out a very flattering light. The light is coming from around the lens, but since it is symmetrical it seems as if the light is coming right from the center of the lens.
Small strobe powered ring lights can be used for stills but if you want something really impressive, you would go with a huge wooden bulb-driven ring light. While those are a bit harder to transport, they give out a spectacular light that can also be used for video.
Check out the article here: http://www.diyphotography.net/how-to-build-a-kick-ass-4-feet-diy-ring-light/
A few weeks back I wrote an article about stopping down the ambient light by 2-3 stops and using flash to expose for your subject, kind of a Magic Bullet look. Today I wanted to make an addition to that article – how you can add a CTO gel to your flash and change your white balance to get a different feel and add “Whapak” to your shot.
Check out the whole article here: http://www.diyphotography.net/cto-gel-and-wb-flash/
OK, you got me, there is no magic bullet. The truth of it is that you have to work hard and know what you’re doing. That said, this technique is a handy tool to have in the toolbox – I use it often to get great and predictable results.
I still remember the first time I tried this technique. It was four years ago in Hawaii. It was the perfect sunset, and I wanted to properly expose for both my background (the sunset) and my subjects.
Check out the whole article here: http://www.diyphotography.net/2-stops-underexpose/
Ever since I started photography I had a thing for lighting. Nowadays, every time I see a picture, I can’t help it but to analyze and breakdown how it was lit. In this article I will share my analyzing process, step by step.
I believe understanding light can make a huge improvement to any photographer’s work, and practicing light-analysis is definitely one of the better ways to do it. When was just starting out, analyzing light on Flickr photos I love was a huge learning experience for me.
There are plenty of way (or tricks) to analyze light, this is how I do it, feel free to share yours too.
The first thing I do is break down the lighting into 4 hint-groups: Catchlights, Shadows, Highlights, and Background lights.
Check out the article here: http://www.diyphotography.net/analyzing-light-breakdown-lighting-photo/
Last week, I wrote an article about shooting a watch using only one light, and I promised to write a Part 2 of this series on how to shoot a watch using more Photoshop work. So, I was in my studio preparing to do the 2nd part of the article and I brought my iPad for pegs and music. I was getting ready to shoot but something crazy hit me, what if I shot the watch using only my iPad (like I did a year ago for other products), could be something, right?
So, here is a step by step and behind the scenes tutorial on how to photograph a watch using your iPad.
Check out the article here: http://www.diyphotography.net/shoot-perfect-watch-using-ipad/
A few months back, I wrote an article on how to use everyday objects for outstanding backdrops. This post can be considered a part two of that post, as it shows a simple technique to using a piece of cardboard to create the illusion of space.
As I normally do when I seek inspiration, I was browsing flickr and 500px. I found a photo of a gobo’d background using only one light. I liked the idea. So I went to my studio and started playing with it. While it did not had a need for this specific look at the time, I wanted to make sure I have this tool in my toolbox. (I also use the Light Blaster for a similar effect, but then I need a second light as it throws a very hard beem). It’s a very simple technique and very easy do. Here is a quick tutorial on how it is done.
Check out the article here: http://www.diyphotography.net/use-simple-technique-create-illusion-different-spaces-using-one-light/
I like playing around with lightpainting ever since I started photography because the possibilities were endless! One night I wanted to challenge myself to lightpaint using only my gadgets, so my iphone and my ipad.
I thought of using my iPhone as my main light to highlight the subject and my iPad to use as my background. I had an app in my iPad which had some cool patterns to use as a catchlight, then I saw a pattern which I knew would look great if I used it for lightpainting.
Check out the article here: http://www.diyphotography.net/lightpainting-iphone-and-ipad/
You know those ads that have a bottle of soda and an edited splash on the sides, seems like they are the standard for light drinks now. Seeing one of those inspired me to do try and recreate such a shot, and of course share it with you.
Check out the article here: http://www.diyphotography.net/create-high-speed-photography-multiple-exposure-photos-miminal-gear/
I started my first 365 project in flickr with a 365 Days Bokeh Project. After awhile playing with Christmas lights with bokeh, I tried thinking of a new bokeh background.
I tried using plastic bottles and different reflective materials for the background until I ended up with using a very simple material found in the kitchen which gave such an amazing result. Aluminum foil.
Check out the article here: http://www.diyphotography.net/el-bokeh-wall/
Last week I shared an article about putting a granite tile to good use, there was one technique in that post that I wanted to expand and make a dedicated tutorial for because it’s one of the simplest yet a classy way to light glass.
Check out the article here: http://www.diyphotography.net/glass-technique/
One of the simplest yet most used items in my photography toolbox is simple black granitle tile. I bought a small one 3 years ago and I am still using it today. I have a small tile that I bought it for $4 and a bigger one that I got for $20. Other people use plexiglass or just a simple glass table for this kind of look. Here in this article you can see all the things you can work with while using a granite tile.
Check out the article here: http://www.diyphotography.net/granite-tile/
I was at starbucks the other day and saw this cool looking Mug, and was thinking that this was the perfect mug to practice my product shots. I already had the shot I wanted, but the problem was I didn't have enough coffee beans to cover the table. So, what I did was take multiple shots and moved the coffee beans from one shot to the next, until I got the whole table full of coffee. Here is how you do it...
LICK LINK TO READ MORE: